How To Install Chain Link Posts

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If y'all need to enclose a piece of land, then a concatenation-link fence might be the respond. A chain-link fence is an inexpensive way to enclose any sized surface area for safety or security. Unlike solid fencing, chain-link'due south open up weave pattern lets people see through the fence, while however serving every bit a barrier to unauthorized entry. With planning, patience, and a fleck of elbow-grease, you tin can install a concatenation link fence yourself.

1. 1

   Obtain whatsoever necessary permits. Your local authorities may take building and zoning regulations that regulate argue setbacks, blazon, and height. If you install a fence without a allow, they may tear down the structure.

2. two

   Institute where your property lines are located. This information tin exist obtained from city records, a realtor'due south line plot map, or past hiring a surveyor.^[i]

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3. 3

   Find out where your utility lines are. Have your utility companies mark the location of your utility lines. Yous don't want to accidentally hit them while digging post holes.^[2]

   • You tin can telephone call 811 from anywhere in the The states. Your local utility companies volition so ship an employee to mark your utility lines for free.

4. four

   Review any neighborhood covenants for regulations on fencing. Some neighborhood associations have their own rules regarding height and way, additional to the rules enforced by your boondocks.

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1. 1

   Locate the property lines that edge your neighbor's. For your post holes, measure out approximately four inches (10.2 cm) inside those lines. This prevents the physical footings from encroaching onto your neighbor'south property. Clear the working space forth the entire length of the belongings line to make it easier to movement a wheelbarrow, also equally for rolling out the fence for installation.^[three]

2. 2

   Measure out the total length of your planned fence. This determines how many anxiety of chain-link mesh and the amount of hardware you'll need. Consult your local retailer for mail spacing guidelines to determine the number of posts you'll need.^[four]

3. 3

   Find each terminal post location. Mark the exact spot with a stake or spray paint. A terminal post refers to any end, corner or gate posts.^[5]

   • Spray paint works best equally stakes will create a possible tripping hazard and can cause injury.

4. four

   Dig all the terminal post holes first. Mail holes should exist dug three times the width and one-3rd the length of the post, with an extra 4 inches (x.two cm) for gravel. Gradient the sides and so that the pigsty is wider at the bottom than at the acme.^{[half dozen]}

5. 5

   Fill the post holes with 4 inches (10.2 cm) of gravel. Tamp down the gravel to provide a compact foundation for the posts and concrete.^[7]

6. half dozen

   Stand a concluding post in the heart of its pigsty. Mark the side of the post at ground level using a marking or chalk. The height above the line should equal the peak of the fence mesh, plus 2 inches (5.1 cm).^[8]

7. 7

   Plumb the post. Plumbing a post helps keep your fence looking directly. Using a carpenter's level or plumb line to check the balance, position the mail until its plumb.^[9]

8. 8

   Secure the post in position. Using clamps and pieces of 1" 10 4" x four' to vi' long lumber angled on two sides, brace the post in its plumb position by using wooden stakes driven into basis and screws. Double cheque all measurements, post spacing, and height one final fourth dimension earlier securing it to the bracing material because you lot exercise non desire it to be even slightly out of alignment when the concrete hardens.^[10]

9. 9

   Fill the hole with concrete. Pour or shovel concrete around the post. Smooth the surface with a trowel or modest piece of wood, sloping abroad from the postal service to direct water elsewhere.^[11]

10. 10

    Repeat until all your final posts are installed. Allow time for the physical to gear up, co-ordinate to manufacturer's recommendations. Let at least 24 hours at minimum before putting tension on posts.^[12]

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1. 1

   Run a string line between the final posts. The string should exist taut, depression to the ground, and positioned on the outside face of the terminal posts.^[13]

2. 2

   Marker the location of each line post. Using a post spacing nautical chart, measure out and mark the exact spot with a stake or spray paint.

3. iii

   Dig the line post holes. Line post holes should be 6 inches (fifteen.2 cm) wide and 18 inches (45.7 cm) to 24 inches (61.0 cm) deep, with sloping sides. Right before installing line posts, you can run a second, very tight line from terminal posts to set the top of line posts, but always re-check all measurements before final bracing.^[14]

4. 4

   Fill the line mail service holes with 4 inches (10.2 cm) of gravel. Pat down the gravel to provide a meaty foundation for the posts and physical.^[15]

5. v

   Position a line postal service in the middle of its pigsty. Use a marker or chalk to mark the side of the postal service at ground level. The peak above the line should equal the superlative of the contend mesh, plus two inches (5.one cm).^[sixteen]

6. 6

   Make certain your post is plumb. Go around the mail service with your carpenter's level or plumb line, checking to see if the mail is balanced. Proceed moving the post until it'due south plumb.^[17]

7. 7

   Secure the post in the plumb position. Add clamps and long pieces of lumber that are angled on ii sides to hold the post in its plumb position. Employ wooden stakes in the ground as well equally screws to brace the post. Before securing the post, double check that it's straight.^[xviii]

8. eight

   Pour in the physical. Smooth over the surface of the concrete with a trowel or small piece of forest. Create a slope in your physical and then that water volition slide down away from your fence post.^[xix]

9. 9

   Continue until all of your line posts are installed. Allow fourth dimension for the concrete to set, according to manufacturer's recommendations. Allow at to the lowest degree 24 hours at minimum before putting tension on posts.^[xx]

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1. i

   Slide tension bands onto each post. Tension bands secure the chain-link mesh to the posts. Use one less tension band than the superlative of the fence, in feet. For case, if the contend is 4-anxiety high, use 3 tension bands per post. For a 6-foot contend, use 5 bands, and then on.^[21]

   • The long, flat surface of the tension ring should face up toward the outside of the contend.

2. 2

   Add the appropriate caps to posts. Concluding posts become finish caps. Line posts get looped caps (for the top runway.)

3. three

   Tighten all the nuts and bolts, just not too tight. Go out some slack for adjustments.^[22]

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1. 1

   Feed the elevation rails through the loop caps. Cut off excess length with a piping cutter or hacksaw. If the rails are as well short, create longer runs by using rails with male person-female person coupling ends.^[23]

2. ii

   Insert the rails ends into the last track caps. Yous may need to adjust the height of the rail caps to allow for the height of the chain link mesh, plus a 2 inch (v.1 cm) clearance at the bottom.^[24]

3. 3

   Tighten nuts and bolts. Afterward checking your top rails and caps for proper fit and alignment, tighten all the hardware.^[25]

4. 4

   Add your dirt. Fill the line post holes with dirt, packing the dirt firmly around the holes.^[26]

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1. 1

   Slide a tension bar vertically through the starting end of the mesh coil. This will stiffen the mesh and so that y'all can attach it to the debate posts and rails.^[27]

2. ii

   Commodities the tension bar to one of the concluding posts' tension bands. The mesh should overlap the track by 1 to 2 inches (2.five to 5.ane cm) and be 2 inches (5.1 cm) off the ground.^[28]

   • Yous'll demand someone to help you stand the mesh upward to the end post and a socket wrench to turn the commodities.

3. 3

   Brainstorm unrolling the mesh. Stand it up against the fence frame, taking out the slack as yous go.^[29]

4. 4

   Loosely attach the mesh to the elevation rail. Utilize fence ties to hold it in place. Separate enough length from the roll to span the opening between the terminal posts.^[xxx]

5. five

   Splice sections together as needed. Using a unmarried strand of wire removed from one finish of the mesh, join two sections by corkscrewing the loose strand through the end links. A 2d strand may have to be removed to provide the correct line-up of "diamonds."^[31]

6. 6

   Remove backlog mesh. Using pliers, untwist the top and bottom loops on one strand of wire where you want to separate the mesh. Piece of work the freed strand out of the links until the two sections separate.^[32]

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1. 1

   Pull the mesh taut with a fence puller. The stretching is necessary so the fence doesn't sag. Thread the debate puller's bar into an unattached section of mesh, a brusk distance from the far terminate post.^[33]

   • Adhere the fence puller'due south yoke to the pull bar and connect the other end of the puller to the far end post.
   • Stretch the mesh with the fence puller until the mesh loops motility less than a quarter-inch when squeezed by hand.
   • If the mesh gets pulled out of shape during the tightening procedure, pull on it to reshape it.

2. 2

   Add a 2d tension bar. Run a second tension bar through the cease of the mesh near the fence puller. This volition permit attaching the stretched mesh to the far terminate mail's tension bands.Thread the fence puller'southward bar into an unattached section of mesh, a brusk distance from the far end post.^[34]

3. 3

   Complete your debate with a tension bar. Terminate the mesh with a tension bar on the far end post's tension bands. Remove whatsoever new excess produced past stretching.^[35]

4. 4

   Tie the mesh to the rails with aluminum wire. Space your ties 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart along the pinnacle runway and 12 inches (thirty.5 cm) apart on each line post.^[36]

5. 5

   Add tension wire (optional). Thread tension wire through the bottom mesh loops. Tighten the tension wire effectually the end posts. Depict the wire tight and wrap information technology around itself next to the posts.^[37]

   • Calculation tension wire prevents animals from pushing in under the argue.

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Add New Question

• Question

  The contour of my yard changes between line posts. How do I curve the top rail to accommodate the slope?

  

  I had to exercise this in one case so I parked my truck on pinnacle of the rail at the point where the bend needed to outset. And so I lifted the other terminate so it bent.

• Question

  How frequently should I put in a line postal service?

  

  Determine the actual distance of the department and so split up the distance by 10. Round your answer downwardly to the next whole number - this is the required number of line posts. For example, if you had a debate that was 55' long, the formula would be: 55' ÷ 10 = 5.v. Circular down to five, and y'all see that you would need five line posts for this section. If you identify v line posts in between ii terminal posts, it will yield six sections of fence. To determine the proper, equidistant spacing of line posts, carve up the number of sections into the total distance.

• Question

  If there is a wire betwixt posts along the bottom of a chain link contend, is this the tension wire?

  

  Yep. That is the tension wire. The wire is simply to foreclose the fencing from being pushed outward (or inwards).

• Question

  Are line posts and concluding posts the same peak higher up footing level?

  

  Terminal posts are ordinarily 2" higher than the fence mesh, and line posts are ordinarily 2" lower. The line posts are lower, then the peak rail + looped cap will be roughly level with the top of the argue mesh.

• Question

  How do you install a chain link fence on slope?

  

  It is the same process as beingness on flat basis except you may have transition points in the fencing to 'weave' together just like calculation two pieces of contend together. Exist certain that all the posts are perfectly 'plumb' and not at an bending. It may require longer posts to become them perfectly vertical.

• Question

  Can I secure three lines of fence to a terminal mail?

  

  Yes, but probably no more than four, to exist sure to have enough room for the tension bands.

• Question

  Roughly how much is the cost for installation?

  

  It varies. Your best bet is to run an internet search for fencing contractors in your area, selection 3 or 5 companies, and get quotes from each of them.

• Question

  Practice I terminate the line posts with clay or concrete?

  

  Laura 50 Larsen

  Community Answer

  If you make full with concrete only to a couple inches from the elevation of the mail service hole, you can then pack dirt around them so it looks improve, afterward the concrete is fully set up. Rather than catastrophe up with a six" circle of concrete around each mail service, the dirt (and/or lawn) will become all the fashion upwards to the posts, and await more natural.

• Question

  Do they make tension bands for ii" posts?

  

  Yes. Dwelling Depot and Lowe'southward don't sell them, though. Effort an contained fence supplier. I installed 2" terminal posts and tension bands in my yard.

• Question

  On which side of the pole do I identify the fencing material, my side or my neighbour's?

  

  Fence material is ordinarily placed on the "outside" of the fence area, which would mean on the neighbor's side. It does not truly matter for the functionality of the fence, however, and you may avoid hassles with the neighbor by putting information technology on your side. You need to unroll the fence before attaching, so you would exist doing this step in your neighbor'south 1000.

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Video

• Chain-link fence can too be attached to wooden posts and rails. In those cases, no end caps, loop caps or rail caps are used.

• If the ground slopes upwardly or downwardly at your gate's location, set the gate posts to follow the grade.

• To provide privacy with a concatenation link fence, thread thin, flexible wooden or plastic slats diagonally through the mesh. Privacy slats are available in a variety of colors at most hardware stores and home centers.

• Take everything ready and easily available before starting post installations, starting with the gravel start. Next, have the tools and water to mix and pour the concrete, with the bracing materials and tools fix for installation.

• Plan on having at least one other person to aid you, especially when rolling out the fencing as it is very heavy. You will also need aid when stretching the wire and bracing your posts after you plumb them.

• Apply quick-setting cement for faster installation.

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• Dig all post holes near the home or building by hand. Unmarked pipes and other lines may exist located near the foundation.

• For security reasons, install all nuts on the within of the fence. This brand them more difficult to remove from the outside.

• Be certain in one case the bracing is in place the posts and bracing do non get bumped, which could cause the post to move earlier the concrete has gear up.

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Things You'll Need

• Rolls of chain link mesh cloth (sold in rolls of 50 feet)
• Metal top rail, line posts and terminal posts (may substitute wooden posts and rails)
• Mail, rail and finish caps (if using metal posts and rail)
• Tension confined and bands
• Fence stretcher
• Brace bands
• Contend ties
• Fence gates, hinges and swivel bolts (if installing a gate)
• Wire cutters
• Postal service pigsty digger or power auger
• Clamps and lumber
• Pipe cutter or hacksaw (for metal pipes) or saw (wooden posts)
• Prophylactic mallet
• Socket wrench
• Wheelbarrow or minor cement mixer
• Concrete
• Shovel and hoe
• Record measure out
• Carpenter's level or plumb bob
• Stakes or spray paint
• String line
• Water hose with a close off nozzle at piece of work site
• Gloves
• Safety glasses
• Screws for bracing
• Drill with a bit for the screws
• 12" wooden stakes
• Small sledgehammer

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Commodity Summary X

To install a chain link debate, start by establishing your property lines and placing your post holes 4 inches inside those lines. Next, measure the total length of the fence and marker where each terminal postal service will go. You'll want to dig your terminal posts offset, and then install your line posts. One time all of the posts are in the ground, slide tension bands on them to secure the concatenation link mesh to the posts. Then, slide a tension bar through the mesh ringlet, bolt the bar to a terminal post, and unspool the mesh. To acquire tips from our Landscaper reviewer, including how to stretch the concatenation link, keep reading!

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